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Walking with giants
Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 (CDT) by Thoth
 Mexico City is a mesmerizing place, but even the most stoic traveler eventually seeks relief from the relentless noise and air pollution of one of the world´s largest metropolises. Being no exception, I made my way one eye-stinging morning to the colossal Terminal Norte and bought a bus ticket to Tula, some 40 miles north of the urban sprawl.
Tula flourished for 250 years as capital of the fierce Toltec Empire and had as many as 60,000 inhabitants at its peak around 1100 A.D. The city rose to prominence after the mysterious fall of Teotihuacán, an immense city state to the south.
Many theories have been advanced to explain Teotihuacán´s demise - attacks by hostile tribes, economic decline, and even ecological disasters - but no one knows for certain why the heart of Mesoamerican society for almost a millennium suddenly collapsed.
After a
pleasant ride through rolling, cactus-studded hills, the bus pulled
into the modern town of Tula. I flagged down a taxi and soon found
myself standing at the gates of the archeological zone ready to begin
my journey back in time. I inspected Toltec pottery and sculpture in
the site´s small museum then headed out to the ruins. En route I
reveled in the warm sunshine, tranquil countryside, and blessed fresh
air. A profusion of wildflowers and scraggly mesquite bushes lined the
path. At every turn, giant cacti framed distant volcanic peaks.
Skittering lizards and darting butterflies kept me company.
Before long ancient Tula
came into view. The city is dominated by its famous Atlantean Men,
massive stone warriors that stand guard over the remains of this lost
civilization. They once supported a wooden temple roof but now loom
unencumbered atop a pyramid-like structure known as the Temple of
Quetzalcóatl. Legend has it that at about the same time Teotihuacán met
its demise in the 10th century, the great Toltec leader One Reed
Topiltzin Quetzalcóatl led his people from the southern Valley of
Mexico to the present site of Tula.
Standing among Tula´s
silent warriors, I found it easy to speculate why the Toltecs chose
this location for their city. The temple platform commands panoramic
views of the lush flood plain of the Tula River and the hazy peaks of
the Sierra Madre rising in the distance.
The 15-foot-high Toltec
warriors are decked out in full battle dress. Pillbox-shaped helmets
topped with Quetzal plumes perch on their heads. Stylized butterfly
emblems adorn their chests and circular shields protect their backs.
Each one clutches a quiver of spears in his left hand and an atlatl or
"spear-thrower" in the other.
UFO-enthusiasts such as
author Erich von Däniken, who wrote the controversial book "Chariots of
the Gods," claim that the Toltecs were in touch with extraterrestrials,
and that Tula´s warriors are really wearing space suits and carrying
laser guns.
Whatever their origins,
these aloof giants rank among ancient Mexico´s most intriguing
legacies. In bright sunlight, they are fresh-faced soldiers marching
triumphantly off to battle, but when clouds hide the sun, they become
brooding symbols of a mysterious, bloodthirsty regime.
To the west, I could see an
army of white columns standing frozen at attention as if awaiting
orders from the warriors poised above. These scarred pillars are all
that remains of the Burnt Palace, probably once an administration
building or market. On the temple´s east side is a multi-tiered pyramid
which may have served as living quarters for the high priests who
performed sacrificial rites. A crumbling altar marks the barren plaza´s
center.
Most of Tula´s artwork
reflects a preoccupation with dark forces and bloodshed. Bas-reliefs
depicting jaguars, coyotes and eagles devouring human hearts decorate
the base of Quetzalcóatl´s temple. Grisly carvings of serpents
swallowing skeletons cover the Coatepantli, a 140-footlong wall running
parallel to the temple. Leering statues known as Chac-Mools lie
scattered about the site. Priests placed the hearts of sacrificial
victims in bowls on these reclining figures´ laps, which might explain
why their startled faces are always skewed sideways, away from the
horrific sight.
When the Spanish
Conquistadors subjugated Mexico´s indigenous peoples, they managed to
suppress most of their sacred rituals. One that did survive was the
popular Ball Game that had been played throughout Mesoamerica. Tula
boasts two restored ball courts. The largest, framing the west side of
the plaza is longer than a football field.
Early Spanish witnesses
recorded that games often lasted for days and were attended by lords
bedizened in brilliant feathered robes and headdresses. Friezes often
show the exhausted captain of the losing team being decapitated with an
ax.
Tula also came to a cruel
end. According to a popular theory, lengthy droughts and internal
conflicts weakened the city. Its temples were burned between 1150 and
1200 A.D., perhaps by marauding tribes from the north. The Toltecs
deserted Tula, and it likely fell under control of the powerful Aztecs
who spread out over most of Mexico from their immense capital,
Tenochtitlán, whose remains now lie buried under downtown Mexico City.
Shadows were lengthening as
I reluctantly began retracing my steps. I turned around to have one
last look at the ruins and bid the warriors goodbye. To my surprise, an
Indian woman had appeared out of nowhere with a herd of sheep that were
now grazing contentedly in the Great Plaza. A vendor farther along the
path sold me a refresco from his bucket of ice. He bemoaned the lack of
visitors. I nodded in agreement while whispering a prayer of thanks to
the gods.
Copyright: EL UNIVERSAL
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